Gregory “Gee” Smalls, alongside his husband Juan, are the co-owners of Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and Bar, an upscale eatery focusing on Gullah Geechee cuisine, the oldest Black culture in America.
The Atlanta resident, 48, is not only a father, activist, and husband, but he’s also in tune with many of his talents, including philanthropy, entrepreneurship, and writing.
Smalls, 48, was born and raised on James Island, north of Charleston, and many of the dishes listed on the menu are based on recipes handed down from family members still living on the island.
The restaurant is named for Smalls’ late father and features a mural of its namesake created by local Atlanta artist C. Flux Sing.
Their first location opened on Main Street in College Park in the summer of 2019. It serves soul food inspired by Gullah Geechee cuisine, including crab rice, red rice, shrimp, and crab gravy.
Since opening in 2019 in College Park, they now have since opened locations in both West Midtown and Conyers, with low country offerings like Smotha’d Poke Chops (two fried pork chops, smothered in gravy over jasmine rice with a choice of vegetable), Slammin’ Sammen (blackened salmon with jasmine rice, Geechee fried corn and crab cream sauce, garnished with a fried oyster & shrimp) and Motha’s Spaghetti (spaghetti served with ground turkey, chicken or pork sausage and garlic toast) that celebrate the Geechee dialect and his father’s infectious catchphrases.
“Virgil’s wasn’t only about strengthening a legacy that started in honor of my father, but it is also helping to spread awareness about the oldest Black culture in America,” Smalls said. “As Gullah Geechee people, we were not always celebrated in the way that we are starting to see it hit mainstream right now. In fact, it was quite the opposite. So, to even be a small part of preserving such a rich and unique culture is beyond an honor for both of us.”
Additionally, in 2021, the Smalls, along with Atlanta restaurateur Lorenzo Wyche, opened brunch restaurant the Breakfast Boys in the former Kafenio space on Main Street. Wyche first met the Smalls when he consulted on the opening of Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen.
However, in October 2024, there was a grease fire at Virgil’s Gullah Kitchen and Bar’s original location. Smalls says they are currently rebuilding and hope to have that location reopened by the end of this summer.
In the next five to ten years, Smalls says he sees Virgil’s as a more established brand.
“Although it’s established over the past six years, I expect Virgil’s to be more established through more retail products,” he said. “There are different products we want to put out that are on our menu right now, so we want to expand it in that way, along with some new locations, like the airport.”
Smalls is also an author. His 2019 memoir, “Black Enough, Man Enough: Embracing My Mixed Race and Sexual Fluidity,” has recently been re-released. This version is more for the general public, according to Smalls, who said he found it necessary to release a PG-13 version of his memoir because a lot of people, including older people and more conservative individuals, didn’t like to read the language of the explicit sexual scenes.
“Even people with children, they would tell me, ‘Oh, I wish I could get my son or daughter to read this book, but it’s explicit and too adult for them’,” he said.
What’s Next for Smalls
Smalls is also co-creator of “The Gentlemen’s Ball,” an annual black tie fundraising gala which celebrates the accomplishments of Black LGBTQ people and benefits “The Gentlemen’s Foundation,” promoting holistic development of Black men in the LGBTQ community through scholarships, mentorships, and health and wellness outreach.
Described as a “second chance” prom for the LGBTQ+ community, in 2011, the Smalls thought it necessary to have a space to celebrate their community because many black-tie events and awards dinners at the GLAAD Awards and HRC, Smalls said, was not to celebrate or honor Black LGBTQ+ individuals at all.
“We needed to be able to see these images of men other than what was already out there because images were out there, but we didn’t have this elevated image,” he said. “So, we decided we were going to do a second chance prom, because chances are we didn’t go to prom what we really wanted to go with, and this was our second chance to go to prom.”
Furthermore, Smalls says they will be relaunching this year and years to come. There’s not an official announcement yet, but Smalls says there will be a Black pride event coming to Atlanta to raise money and secure sponsorships. They hope to bring the Gentleman’s Ball back in Fall 2026.
For advice, Smalls says to surround yourself with love and support because a lot of times, people can make someone feel they are born into this world not being enough.
“People make us feel inferior, but we are enough,” he said. “Also, loving yourself is about being transparent, vulnerable, and aware of who you are.”
Additionally, Smalls says he’s uncertain about authoring any more books, but currently, the Smalls are working on a seven-episode podcast about their 17-year love story and a talk show on YouTube, releasing later this summer.
He also said they are about to launch one of their menu items from Virgil’s for retail, their Bussin’ Corn Muffins.
Smalls says his favorite part about working alongside Juan in the business is getting to spend a lot of time together.
“Our lives are so intertwined in so many ways that we really get each other,” he said. “We can have conversations with one another that each other can relate to because we do the same line of work, so it brings us closer.”
Outside of business ventures, Smalls says he loves to travel as much as possible and going to the beach. One of his favorite places to visit is Brazil, as he is there a few times a year. He also loves Mexico and Miami.
Through his entire journey up until now, Smalls says he now understands the work is in embracing who he is instead of trying to measure up to what others think is enough.
“You are enough too, just the way you are. I invite you to own that and set yourself free,” he said.